Another Maharaja Costume

June 13, 2012

Since we’re talking Majaraja costumes, I thought I’d share one I made for myself a few years ago. (oh, no, I just checked and it was in 2008…that was a long time ago already!!)

The Friday night theme at Camp Hollywood was Maharaja — Chris wore a tuxedo (inspired by Hal), and I made a “1940’s does Arabian Nights” playsuit – you know, like how all the costumes in period movies of the 30’s & 40’s look more like contemporary fashions with only a slight nod to the past. That’s what I was going for.

Again, this is a rayon fabric for good swish. The skirt is a long panel that’s gathered with box pleats into the waistband, and I put butterfly sleeves on the top for ease of movement.

These photos are from the Amateur Balboa contest – we got first place that year. It was also probably the best hair day of my entire life, and I like to think that had a little to do with winning. 😉

Photos by Lisa Johnson

Maharaja Costume

June 12, 2012

A few months ago, Balboa & Lindy Hop champion Laura Keat contacted me to ask if I would be interested in making a costume for a new routine she was working on. As a rule I don’t sew for other people (I don’t even hem Chris’s pants, he has to take them to the cleaners), but this was a special project that I was very interested in working on.

On Saturday night at All Balboa Weekend, Laura and her dance partner, Jeremy Otth, performed Hal & Betty Takier’s “Maharaja”, a musical short from 1943. This is one of only a few clips we have of LA Swing from the 30’s & 40’s, and this one is a wild ride – the energy and enthusiasm combined with their street dance technique has been hugely influential to modern balboa dancers. In honor of Hal’s recent passing, Jeremy & Laura wanted to represent this in their recreation.

Inspiration: 40’s Playsuit

Inspiration: High-flying skirt!

I worked with Laura to create a 40’s playsuit like the one Betty wears in Maharaja – unfortunately most of the footage we have is pretty blown out and details are hard to see, but that gave us some creative license in the design. For the top and the skirt I used a rayon twill, lined with a rayon satin (I’ve got a bit of a love affair with the drape and flow of rayon – perfect for swishy skirts!)

I draped the top and the skirt, and we decided to put buttons down the skirt so that it can fly open for this routine but be not as…revealing for others. 🙂

Cute, right? Well, get ready to be wowed – they NAILED the routine! Bummed I couldn’t be at the event in person, but so glad I got to be part of it anyway!

Jeremy Otth & Laura Keat perform Hal & Betty Takier’s “Maharaja” in tribute at the 2012 All Balboa Weekend

Photo by Shannon Sheldon

Playing with Toys

February 2, 2012

I picked up a new old toy for myself today – a while ago I took my grandmother’s vintage Singer sewing machine into the shop, and today I finally picked it up! She’s a beaut, if I do say so myself. I couldn’t resist snapping a few shots with my fancy-pants Christmas camera to share with you. (I need a new hobby like I need a hole in the head, but learning photography is turning out to be fun. 🙂

The plates on this machine are exquisite. There was another vintage Singer at the shop that wasn’t nearly as pretty. 😉

I’ve had the machine for maybe 5 years now, and I always knew that I *could* sew with it, but until I started reading sewing blogs it never occurred to me that a lot of people prefer the vintage machines to modern ones! Lauren and her husband inspected it for me and warned me that the electrical needed to be replaced, so off to the shop it went. She got a couple new wires, a new belt and a tuneup, and now she’s ready to go. I just need to get the table out of the garage and negotiate room for it in the living room somewhere – the sewing room is full up!

In honor of my grandmother, Lucille, my new old machine is christened Lucie. 🙂

This is the BACK of the machine. No modern manufacturer would bother with such lovely details on the back of something anymore.

Possibly the coolest part of the whole machine – if you look close you can see the spool of thread at the bottom of the “S”, and the thread goes through needles. Someone should reproduce this and make jewelry or something.

I’m a complete novice about this, but I’m discovering that the nifty thing about vintage Singers is the serial plate for each corresponds to the date of manufacture. According to the Singer website, this machine is from the end of 1940. HOW COOL IS THAT?! My dad doesn’t know if the machine was bought new or used (the family moved around during the war), but he said it definitely came with them during the move from Minnesota to California in the 50’s.

Now I need to find some family photos of garments that Grandma sewed right?

Aunts, come to my rescue! 😀

Regency Evening Gown 2012

January 27, 2012

As I mentioned in my previous post, I have some process shots of creating my dress for this year’s Jane Austen Evening. My dress was inspired by this one from the exhibit Napoleon: The Empire of Fashion – I’ve drooled over the dress ever since I bought the catalog, and when I found some sheer striped fabric in the LA garment district I decided to give it a shot.

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Inspiration

The below 3 images are found via Thomason Photography. I was happy to find this website, because the exhibit catalog doesn’t show the sleeve clearly. I never found a photo of the back, so I just made it up based on my previous Regency dresses.

Source

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Draping

Earlier this year I bought my very first dress form, Beatrice, and she was a life saver for this project. I took all my measurements with my stays on, then put them on her, laced and padded her out to match. I draped the bodice directly on top and only had 2 fittings from start to finish, and honestly the bodice of this dress fits me better than anything else in my closet.

I had 2 fabrics to work with, my base satin and the sheer striped fabric. First step was draping the satin underlayer – I wasn’t sure exactly where I wanted the neckline, so I marked a couple options and picked one in my first fitting. I think(?) I picked the lower one.

I like to make notes on my muslins during draping or fitting, so that I remember what to do to the pattern. I decided to have drawstring closures at the neck and waistline, and because I wanted a slight gathered effect, I added a little extra to the CB of the pattern when I traced off my muslin.

I don’t have a shot of the side view, but I kept the armhole really high, right under the armpit. High armholes are not the standard in today’s clothing but they are crucial for good movement (especially in non-stretch fabrics!), and since I would be dancing in this dress I wanted to be able to lift my arms!

Next I draped my sheer striped fabric on top of my muslin. Luckily this fabric was not expensive, so I bought extra and decided to drape directly in the real fabric, and knew I could start over if I had too. As you can see, the bodice is bias like the original. Love directional stripes! (OK, all stripes are directional, but you know what I mean.)

I don’t even want to remember how long it took me to drape this darn bodice! Hours, literally. Getting all the tucks and poufiness placed correctly and flatteringly was really hard. I draped half, marked all the tucks, and then transfered it to the other side on the flat. The over layers of the bodice are flatlined to the satin.

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Construction

The rest was fairly easy! So of course I didn’t take process shots of it, grr. The neckline is finished with bias binding casing and trimmed with lace and a beaded trim, and I slipstitched the waistline seam allowance closed to create a casing. Here’s the inside view of the front – yes, I overlocked the inside seam allowances!

For the skirt and sleeves, I used my modified Sense & Sensibility pattern from last year and just added the striped overskirt, which was a couple of rectangles with a bunch of box pleats. I did the CB placket wrong because the edges are supposed to butt up to each other, but my placket is for edges that overlap. Oh well, that’s nothing a little hook and eye can’t fix!

The Finished Dress!!

Whew! Thanks for indulging me that post, and congrats if you made it to the end! 😉

Sense and Sensibility Chemise

November 27, 2011

Today is the end of the long Thanksgiving weekend here in the US, and I thoroughly enjoyed every bit of it! We visited with family on Wednesday and Thursday, and on Friday Chris and I met up with friends to go see the Debbie Reynolds costume auction preview in Beverly Hills. (other) Chris from wacky tacky and Lauren from Wearing History did write-ups of our visit, so pop over to check those out!

In other news, I’ve been buckling down and starting to work on some Regency wear in earnest – the annual Jane Austen Evening is at the end of January, so it’s time to get going!

This week I made a chemise from the Sense and Sensibility Underthings pattern. It was nice to work on such an easy-going garment – I tend to get wrapped up in fitting, make 3 mockups, and then burn out before getting to the real thing! I’m usually of the tank-top-is-good-enough opinion when it comes to undergarments that won’t be seen, but someday I want to make a nice sheer white gown, so having a proper chemise is important. It was very easy to put together, and I even did the flat felled seams. Loose fit and cotton? I might have to make more clothing like that…

I only have 2 comments regarding this pattern:

1) Even though I technically fall into the Medium size category, I made the Small chemise. It’s plenty big enough! On the next one I might even remove some of the fullness – I’d rather have a slimmer chemise and add more fullness with a petticoat, if necessary.

2) For the bias casing around the neckline, the instructions say to stitch the bias tape to the neck, then fold back 1/4″ on the other side of the bias tape. That’s insanely hard! Press back the 1/4″ BEFORE you stitch the bias tape to the neckline and you’ll be much happier.

Here some photos of Beatrice wearing my chemise over the Mantua Maker stays…the stays are basically done, but I’m not entirely happy with them and still want to tweak them. But that’s for another post!

Blurry Photo – whoops! :o) I shortened the chemise hem length only about an inch, and probably shouldn’t have even done that. It rides up a little with the stays on.

I really like the drawstring at the neckline – it’s adjustable so you can raise or lower the neckline depending on your gown. The strings are on the inside, and you tie it at the front.

Obviously, the back neckline is adjustable too. 🙂 (Re: the stays, yes I did cross-lacing instead of spiral. I think it would be nearly impossible to get dressed in rear opening spiral laced stays without a maid!)

Side View illustrating how the stays only come halfway up the breast, and the chemise holds in the top – here’s a great post about the proper fit of stays on the Oregon Regency Society blog.

CH 2011 – “A Day at the Races” Outfit

July 27, 2011

I only made one new outfit for Camp Hollywood this year, for Friday night. The theme was A Day at the Races but it was also the night of the Balboa contest finals, so I didn’t want to be too “theme-y”. I decided to wear some 30’s daywear but was still undecided as to exactly WHAT – until Kate posted some Summer Inspiration from 1938. The Sunback Dress (4th picture down, #7754) caught my eye and I knew that was the way to go.

I have a similar sundress pattern that I’ve made several times, so I grabbed that and headed to Jo-Ann’s – and actually found some cream rayon herringbone there! Miracles do happen. The striped fabric was hiding in the upholstery section, but it softened up after washing.