Past Patterns #9384: Ladies’ Three or Four-Piece Skirt: Circa 1917

We’re finally at the end of this Teens costume series! Today we’re going to look at the Past Patterns #9384 Ladies’ Three or Four-Piece Skirt.

With this skirt pattern, we’re back into the category of “only for the brave”. Like the Past Patterns’ Princess Slip pattern, this skirt pattern is a single-size repro with copies of only the original sparse instructions and pattern markings. I found an ad for this pattern in the October 1916 issue of the Ladies’ Home Journal, but unfortunately there were no fun fashion illustrations of it to share.

As a reminder, Christina (in the pink) and I used this same skirt pattern in our outfits for the Great War Gallop. And in looking through my old photo files, I found pics of the version Lauren made AGES ago! (Circa 2011?) Christina and Lauren both made version A, and I made version B.

Front page of instructions
Back page of instructions

Since I made view B, I used pieces 1, 2, 5, 6, and 7. I should have also used piece 4, but I got so wrapped up in trying to figure out how the belt worked that I forgot it also had a waistband, so I wound up doing an overcomplicated internal waist facing instead. Oops!

  • Skirt Side
  • Skirt Back
  • Skirt Front
Waistband hook, snaps, and buttons for closures. The snaps are not mentioned in the instructions ANYWHERE, so it took me a while to figure out how this placket closure should work.
Waistband interior construction. I attached some heavy-duty waistband interfacing to the brown petersham facing, which provides a really excellent level of support. I also added stay-tape to the sideseams for additional support. An original would probably use a skinny twill tape for support on the sideseams, but this modern stuff is what I had in my stash.
Pocket Detail. I cut 4 of the pocket pieces to make a double-sided pocket, so that the face of the fabric is visible on both sides when the flap is folded down. I did mine as a patch pocket and the flap is not actually functional.
Skirt in Progress. I’m not normally so diligent about things like thread marking, but this time I was very glad I did it. It made the snap and button placement MUCH easier to do accurately. I wasn’t completely pleased with the shape of the skirt at this point – it was too long and not full enough at the hem, even with a petticoat under it.
  • Sleeve wigan as hem interfacing
  • This was a BEAST of a hem to sew, but I’m pleased with the final look!

In order to remedy the soft hem, I found some sleeve wigan in my stash and added it to the skirt hem. I was worried it might be too stiff, but since it is on the bias I think it gives just the right amount of support!