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Shoes

“23 Skidoo” – American Duchess Shoes

Have you seen the new American Duchess shoes? I’m sure a lot of you have, but the swing dancers out there should take note – the newest style in this line of historical reproduction shoes is a 1920s spectator heel.

It comes in two colorways – brown-and-white, and all-white version that you can paint any color yourself (and American Duchess always has lots of how-to-paint tutorials on her blog, so don’t be afraid if you’re not super crafty!). Or most shoe repair shops can dye them for you.
Aside from being super cute, these also look like great dance shoes – leather uppers, a smooth sole, T-strap, and check out the heel – it’s a 2 3/8″ French heel, just like The Balboa, a perpetual favorite among swing girls.
American Duchess is in the pre-order phase right now – “23 Skidoo” is only $99 now through 11/19, and after that they go up to $120. And check out her blog for a shoe giveaway!

Dyeing Aris Allen Oxfords

This week is one of my favorite events of the year, but unfortunately I don’t think Hallmark will ever make a card in honor of the Great Los Angeles Air Raid of 1942.

The Air Raid is held at Ft. Macarthur in San Pedro, and is primarily outdoors and unpaved. Last year was rainy, but we’ve been having a mild winter this year so I hope the weather holds through the weekend! Even if the ground isn’t muddy it’ll still be dirty, so I want some warm sturdy shoes to wear. Last year I wore my Aris Allen oxfords and they got nice and muddy, and last weekend I finally got around to dyeing them, which I’ve wanted to try for a long time.
This isn’t exactly a tutorial on how to dye these shoes because I feel that this technique can be improved on, but in case some gals want to dye theirs I thought I’d document what I did. If you have any ideas how to improve this process, please comment below! And if you haven’t seen it, read the Dreamstress’s Shoe Dyeing Tutorial.
Supplies:
Dye – I chose Dylon, RIT would probably work fine
Salt – this may or may not be a good idea, see below
Gloves – get a 5 pack, I used at least 3 pairs
Brush – I chose a cheap sponge version, it worked fine
Old toothbrush – to clean shoes
White Tissue paper – stuff inside shoes while dyeing
Not shown: 
Bowl for dye (glass or stainless steel)
Spoon for mixing dye (do not use for food)
Paper towels!
Using a toothbrush or something similar, clean your shoes. Mine still had lots of mud from last year, and you need to clean off all the junk so the dye can take evenly.
I mixed up the dye according to the package instructions, but they wanted me to add salt to the dyebath water. Since I painted my shoes, I added it to the dye – which I’m not sure was a good move…

I didn’t tape off any trim, but if you want to, do that now.
Stuff the shoes with tissue paper or paper towels.
Using the brush, thoroughly wet the shoes with plain water, then apply the dye. It’s like watercolor painting, wet-on-wet. It spreads fast and goes on fairly evenly.

Wet shoes, after one coat. I let them dry for a while, then did a second coat.

After drying, the shoes were really splotchy! I’m not sure if it was from the dye or the salt, but it brushed away. I had already pitched the toothbrush, which was the wrong tool for the job anyway, so Chris got me a soft bristle brush from his shoe polishing kit.

 Shoe Brush.
Ahh, much better! not perfect, but good enough. They are more even-toned in real life.
Here’s a warning about this project. The velvet nap seems like it’s made of cotton, which is a natural fiber and dyes well with Dylon or RIT. The stitching and binding are synthetic and doesn’t pick up the dye for natural fibers well, which is why you get the neat contrast. BUT!! it looks like under the cotton nap is a synthetic base, so the areas that are rubbed down through wearing don’t take the dye well either.
If you really want to dye well worn shoes, I’d recommend mixing together dyes that are intended for natural and synthetic fibers. But then you’ll loose the contrast stitching because that will dye too. Another option is to use a lighter shade of dye so the contrast won’t be as strong.
FYI, I never wore these shoes much, maybe out dancing 5 times? That was enough to wear down the nap, I guess.
I’m still really happy with how they turned out! I like them in brown MUCH more than the off-white from before, and the contrast stitching is so cool. Most of the uneven color is on the inside of the shoes so it’s not obvious, and I’m not above touching them up with a marker. 🙂 Now I just need to find the Scotchgard and spray them down!

Make and Mend

It’s been a rough couple weeks around here (just busy with work, etc.), but I’ve been trucking along with my make and mend projects when I get a chance. Most of my projects have been sitting in a pile for weeks or months (years? yes, even that. sheesh!) so I’m glad to be forced into working on them.

My first 3 mending projects have been fairly simple. One was tacking a hole in a sweater (just one little hole, but I didn’t want to wear it and have it run), the second was restitching the zipper in a favorite dance skirt, and the third was cleaning up some Re-Mix shoes.

This skirt’s actually green. But I wouldn’t mind having a blue skirt!
The shoes are the most dramatic transformation. I’ve danced HARD in these shoes for the last couple years, and they still have some life left in them but they looked so gnarly I was embarrassed to wear them out. I had them reheeled a year ago and asked the guy to repaint them gold, but they didn’t look any better afterward, so I decided to try it myself. First up, clean them and snip any loose threads.

Then I got a gold paint pen and went over them a couple times. I have no idea how long this will last, and if you try it on your expensive Re-Mix shoes and they get messed up for any reason, don’t blame me! This was my last ditch effort to save them from the trash bin.

 

And voila! I’m pretty happy with them. They’re slightly streaky if you look close, but the nicks and scuffs are gone. Chris polished them for me after I took these pictures and now they’re a little less bling-y, but hopefully that keeps them from rubbing off on other people’s shoes. Like his. 😉

Heel, Girl!

Betty Roeser, original (Balboa) Swing dancer,
often wore flats – but her feet flew!
Photo Source: LAPL Library

Over the last week, there’s been a lot of chatter in the Lindy Blogosphere about Women Dancing in Heels – Yay or Nay (inspired by Why Women Should Wear Heels by Sarah Breck). I’m not surprised that it created some excitement (although I did think it was going to center around the oppression of women rather than physical comfort! 😉 The other night a couple people asked me about dancing in heels, so I thought I’d write up a little sumpthin’.

For roughly the last 3-4 years, I’ve danced nearly exclusively in heels – not too tall, 2 3/4″ is my favorite heel height. But I don’t give it a lot of thought, my shoe choice is almost exclusively based on color…

Dancing only in heels wasn’t a conscious decision – back before that I only danced in sneakers or wedges, but my feet started feeling heavy and sluggish and grounded, and when I danced in heels it forced me to lighten up and pick up my feet more. It changes your posture because your weight is forced forward onto the ball of your feet, and it gave me a jolt to re-evaluate how I wanted my posture to look while dancing Lindy. The more I wore heels, the more I liked the look and the feeling, and now I feel clunky in wedges. (I still kinda like tennies.)

Nowadays, I rarely drop my heel to the ground, and when I do it’s usually to accent a beat or do a certain styling – I almost never put a lot of weight on it. It’s come a long way from my old flat-footed dancing!

Reasons I wear heels:
1) I’m lazy – I don’t like to change my shoes throughout the night, so I just pick a cute pair and stick with them.
2a) They’re loud. I know just enough tap dancing to make trouble, and it’s easier to add a little tap rhythm styling while wearing heels.
2b) I’m more inspired to do footwork in general – because I’m not as “grounded” it’s easier to move the dogs around.
3) I like the look of a tight narrow base (regardless of 1 foot or 2), and heels help focus your weight into the smallest area possible. Should I try pointe shoes next? 🙂
4) I only go dancing 1-2 nights per week, and that’s when I like to dress up. I’m super casual and wear flats the rest of the time, so I figure I have time to recover from the damage I do to myself. If I danced more, I’d have to switch it up.
5) Heels were popular with Original Balboa dancers.

Reasons to not wear heels:
1) They really do injure you, and make existing joint issues worse.
2) In general, Original Lindy dancers wore flats or wedges.
3) Because your weight is forced only the balls of your feet, it’s really really hard to pike properly in a swingout, especially to fast music.

Funny thing is, after talking about wearing heels, I want to get out some flats and experiment with them. I wonder what I’d discover?

Pickwick Vintage Expo

Finally found time for an update! Well not really, since I should be packing for our move…but I need a little break, right?

Last weekend I headed out to the Pickwick Vintage Expo that I posted about previously. Chris decided to skip it, since there isn’t usually much menswear at this event. Good call – even our favorite vendors didn’t bring menswear – they have it, but it doesn’t sell as well so they don’t bother bringing it.

I was hoping to find some sewing notions and magazines, but didn’t find either. I did get a couple new pieces though!

Deadstock 40’s Wedges with a coveted ankle strap – so they don’t fall off while dancing!
Navy Swing Coat. I really really really am going to stop collecting coats soon. But I don’t have a navy coat, or a swing coat, so how could I pass on it?
Don’t worry, I was a good girl and walked away from the 30’s silver and green brooch, even if she did knock $100 off the price…

Buying Vintage Shoes Online – and a SALE!

I just came across this helpful chart from Vintage Martini for sizing vintage shoes. Perfect timing, because I was recently talking to a friend about how important sizing is when buying shoes vintage online (and how I learned this the hard way…) Every half size is only a change of 1/8″ !!

The chart looks accurate to me – I wear a size 8, and 9 3/4″ is the magic number I look for. The other crucial number is the width at the ball of the foot – measure a similar pair of shoes you already own to compare. (i.e. Don’t measure sneakers if you’re buying heels.)

Also, Vintage Martini is having a sale on their entire inventory, 50% off everything starting tomorrow through the end of the year! They don’t have an online shopping cart, so you email them to place an order, but they have excellent and speedy customer service.